Beyond the Set Tracks by Holly Weiler

With over 50k of groomed ski trails, it is possible to spend an entire winter season gliding on corduroy while figuring out different loops and routes to explore Mount Spokane’s considerable Nordic ski system. However, during the course of most winters, we end up with a few days (a few weeks if we’re lucky!) with deep fresh powder and cold temperatures to keep it that way. Those are the days I find I want to spend a little time exploring beyond the skate deck and set tracks.

Approaching Ragged Mountain

For those who know what to look for, the ideal route to try begins just beyond the training area at Selkirk Lodge. Art’s Boogie (named in honor of local ski legend Art Bookstrom) ungroomed trail can practically blend into the forest for the uninitiated, but the trained eye might notice a few orange diamond markers affixed to trees snaking through the woods in between the groomed trails. 

More correctly, a route, Art’s Boogie only exists when the snow is deep enough to put a winter comforter over the huckleberry bushes and bear grass of summer, and more importantly, cover the downfall trees lurking beneath the surface. Those who ski this trail do need to be prepared for potentially tricky terrain and hidden hazards, and it’s recommended to ski it with a friend in case of emergency. But the trail gently contours through the woods in between two groomed ski runs, so skiers are in no danger of getting truly lost if they have difficulty spotting the next orange diamond along the route. Simply ski uphill or downhill to be deposited back onto the groomed route.

From Selkirk Lodge to Junction 1, Art’s Boogie runs in the woods just above Valley View and crosses the big open meadow along the way. This is the easiest terrain along the trail and, therefore a good test of a skier’s comfort with traveling off the groomers. At Junction 1, the trail continues between Larch and Alpine. This section has a steeper side slope and crosses a small drainage, becoming increasingly challenging as it ascends toward Junction 2. The final segment runs between Eagle Crest and Silver, each of which are black diamond Nordic groomed trails, hinting at what one might expect off-piste.

Quartz Mountain Lookout

For the skier who manages to stick to Art’s Boogie all the way from Selkirk Lodge to Nova Hut and is looking for more, the next opportunities for a skier challenge can be found by skiing to the summit of Quartz Mountain, then beyond to Horse Mountain. Everything up until this point has been Nordic touring that is possible on most classic ski equipment, but Quartz and Horse begin to approach backcountry terrain. A good ski for this area should include metal edges. My personal favorite skis for this tour are my Altai Hoks. Quartz can be fun as an out-and-back, but those who enjoy powdery and steep descents will love skiing Horse Mountain’s north slope. This includes some tight tree skiing in moderate terrain and should not be skied alone, but since Horse is encircled by the groomed Quartz ski trail it’s impossible to get lost. It is possible to get a little confused about exactly where you’ve exited, though! So it is a good idea to bring a map to help keep track of the fastest way back to Nova Hut.

Descending Horse Mountain

Once a skier has successfully negotiated Horse a few times, the final big challenge in backcountry Nordic at Mount Spokane State Park is to ski to Ragged Ridge. This trail is accessed off the Quartz groomed trail and requires metal edges (or Hoks), a ski partner, and full safety equipment. The ski terrain is not quite so challenging as Horse Mountain, but Ragged Ridge lacks the safety net offered by the other routes as it ventures beyond the groomed trail system. Map and compass skills are necessary, as well as the stamina to complete this much longer tour. Even in summer, few park visitors venture to this Natural Area Preserve within the park. A winter visit on a clear day is magical, with views toward Newman Lake and into Idaho.